Are the tyres on your road bike looking a bit tired? Maybe you’ve have a few flats or you’re just looking to try something new?
Tyres are the cheapest upgrade you can make to your ride, and they’ll make a surprising difference. A good set of tyres can literally make you faster and more comfortable, and help you corner better too.
There are so many different types of tyre out there that it can be a little overwhelming. If you're confused about terms like TPI, tubeless or tubular, then read on for a quick primer.
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What should I look for in a tyre?
The ultimate bike tyre would be super light, impenetrable and insanely fast. Unfortunately that tyre hasn’t been invented yet and in most cases you can have two of these attributes.
Your main type of riding should dictate your tyre choice. For example, if you are headed out on gravel backroads or doing rough-surface inner-city commuting, you should consider a tyre that errs on the side of puncture protection over outright speed or light weight. On the other hand, if you often ride on good roads in the summer when surfaces are clear of debris, then some lightweight, racy tyres can be a great choice.
How often should I replace my tyres?
Types of tyre
Clincher tyres
Tubular tyres
Tubeless tyres
Tyre size: what do the numbers mean?
Anatomy of a tyre
- Bead: This is what holds a clincher or tubeless tyre onto the wheel rim. When mounted to the wheel, air pressure inside the tyre pushes the bead, typically made from either steel wire or Kevlar, into the bead hook on the rim.
- Casing: The casing is cloth fabric woven around the beads to create the main body of the tyre. While the vast majority use nylon fabric, higher-end tyres may use cotton and silk threads. The fibres don’t interweave like they do in the shirt you're wearing right now; instead the threads are parallel and are laid on top of each other at perpendicular angles. The casing has a major effect on ride quality because of the the threads per inch (TPI) value. Tyres that are made with thick thread will have a low TPI and greater rolling resistance, but will be more resistant to punctures. Meanwhile tyres with a high TPI use finer, more delicate thread, have less rolling resistance and weigh less, but are more susceptible to punctures.
- Sidewall: Rubber is applied to the side of the casing between the tread and the bead to form the sidewall. Each tyre will have varying rubber compounds and thickness depending on their riding purpose, with some higher end tyres using natural brown rubber in an effort to reduce rolling resistance. The jury is out on whether this actually makes any difference, but they sure do look cool.
- Sub-tread: Some tyres will have a sub tread layer to fend off punctures. Cheaper tyres may just have an additional layer of rubber beneath the tread, while those on the higher end of the spectrum will have specially designed fabric strips.
- Tread: This is the rubber that comes into contact with the road. It's usually thicker than the sidewall and sometimes features a three dimensional pattern molded into it. Tread pattern is a hotly debated issue, with many claiming that road bike tyres have no need for tread. However, according to Finnish outfit Wheel Energy, because the texture of any road surface is so varied, some tread patterns provide a measurable mechanical adhesion to the ground. The rubber compounds used for different tyres are a closely guarded secret. Generally softer rubber compounds will offer superior traction but will wear quickly, while harder compounds will stand up to more abuse but won’t have the same grip.
The best road bike tyres
Best all-round tyre: Continental Grand Prix 4 Season
Best clincher tyre for racing: Specialized S-Works Turbo Cotton
Best road tubeless tyre: Schwalbe Pro One tubeless
Best puncture proof tyre: Continental Gatorskin Hardshell
You can read more at BikeRadar.com
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